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Problem Reviews 12/14/2011-12/19/2011

Toxic Avenger/Mr. Happy Wall – Shady most of the day. Great rock. Short, but interesting problems. Safe landings.
• DESCENT – To the climber’s right. Hop down a couple of large stones then follow the maze.
• Mr. Happy V5 – A super fun climb. Climb up on fairly tweaky, but deep pockets. Slap to a big sloper, then slap to another smaller sloper. Just plain fun.

Tom Peter’s Slab – Shady most of the day. Good rock quality. Tall problems with scary landings.
• DESCENT – To the climber’s right. Easy down climb/walk off.
• The Pursuit of Wow V0 – Good problem with thought-provoking movement. A bit sequence-intensive for V0. The feet thin out as you go up, which makes it especially intimidating. Not recommended for a beginner climber.

Classique Boulder – Shady most of the day. Good rock quality. Tall problems, but the landings are decent.
• DESCENT – To the climber’s right. Hope across to the Sunburst boulder. Easy down climb/walk-off.
• Too Much for Mike Pope V0+ – Straight-forward pocket pulling. A little intimidating at the top, but the holds are there.
• Classique V0+ – Fun. Large, positive pockets the whole way. Great feet, good movement.
• It’s the Altitude V2 – I didn’t enjoy this one as much as its neighbors to the left. Seems very thin for V2 with a questionable landing. Big moves at the top!

Sunburst Boulder – Shady most of the day. Good rock quality. Short problems with safe landings.
• DESCENT – To the climber’s right. Easy downclimb/walk-off.
• Sunburst Seahorse V2 – What a blast! Ginormous jugs to a long move, then mantle. We took this one a bit right onto the face. Recommended!
• Lack Luster V0- – Also good, but not quite as much fun as its neighbor to the left. Some sharp holds, but interesting movement on the whole.

Corner Boulder – Sunny most of the day. Good stone quality. Fairly tall but with a decent landing zone.
• DESCENT – On the back side of the boulder. Down-climb on jugs.
• Corner V0 – Great problem. Aesthetic with thought-provoking, stylish moves. Unique.

Action Figure Cave – The cave itself is shaded, but sunlight is just a step away all day. Good rock quality. Short problems. Some of the landings are safe, others are sketchy. Pad accordingly.
• DESCENT – Down climb on easy terrain on the right side of the cave.
• Cholos V9 – Intense pocket/crimp climbing. Some sharp, greasy holds and glassy feet, but that comes with the three stars. Fun movement. Stays on you the entire way.

Savannah Boulder – Sun and shade depend on orientation. Good rock quality. Average height with safe landings.
• DESCENT – Easy down-climb on the back of the boulder.
• Kling and Smirk V2 – Fun and powerful with a LARGE move at the end. Chris climbed this one great, I did not. Glassy and greasy.

Fred boulder – Shady most of the day. Good rock quality. Average height with safe landings except for a large stone on the climber’s right side of the boulder.
• DESCENT – Easy down climb on the climber’s left side of the boulder.
• Carrot Top V3 – Short but decent. Not sure it is three star worthy, but it was enjoyable. Beware of the glassy left crimp just before the lip as you mantle! Chris nearly lost it when his foot cut on that thing.

The Slight Inducement boulder – Sunny most of the day. OK rock quality. The two ‘classics’ have sketchy landings.
• DESCENT – Downclimb on the back of the boulder toward the climber’s left, then hop over to another large boulder and downclimb it.
• Secret to Success V2 – Easy jug-hauling with a few sharp pockets. Move to a seam then up. Easier top-out than its neighbor on the right.
• Slight Inducement V1 – Easy jug hauling to a funky top-out. Pretty fun, although a little nerve-wracking at the top. Beware of the boulder at the base.


Problem Reviews 11/25/2011 – 12/13/2011

Clapper Boulder – Beautiful, secluded area that gets sun almost all day. Great on a cold winter day. Overall quality of climbs is superb. Good landings.
• DESCENT – Easy walk off to the left. Hop across from the Clapper Boulder to the Pig Pen Slab, then down.
• Needle Across the Groove V2 – An awkward start leads to more enjoyable climbing. A ‘launch’ is not required. I was able to do some smaller, more precise moves. Decent stone quality. Pad the small stone behind you.
• Pig Pen V2 – Really fun and interesting. A balancey mantle is involved. Good top-out jugs. Excellent problem overall.
• The Clapepr V6 – Fun, quirky. Outside-of-the-box movement with pinches and crimps. Very aesthetic. Thin, hold your breath top-out. We liked this one!
• Standing Ovation V7 – One of the most beautiful climbs in the Happy area. Long moves between sharp crimps with glassy, tiny feet. Worth putting some time into.
• Not the Clapper V1 – Funky! Hard for V1 if you’re short. Slopey, slanting start holds with glassy feet lead left to a huge move to the lip. The start alone is worth doing.

Pig Pen Slab – Good rock quality, sunny most of the day. Good landings.
• DESCENT – To the left. Easy walk-off.
• Unnamed V1 – Both of these climbs will teach you to use your feet. Short. You never feel very solid. It’ll teach you a lot!
• Unnamed V2 – Footwork intensive. Trust the feet. Typical thin slab climbing.

Happy Boulder (South Face) – Soft landings, medium height. Sunny most of the day. Excellent rock quality, but highly trafficked.
• DESCENT. On the left side of the boulder if you’re facing The Hulk. V0 down climbing, not a walk-off.
• Indecision V0- – Loved this climb. Not your typical jug-hauling V0. Climbs up a slanting crack to an easy top out. Great movement.

Cilley Boulder – Average stone quality. The lines are not terribly inspiring. Sunny most of the day. Short. Soft landings.
• DESCENT – Walk-off/minimal down-climb on the back side of the boulder.
• Circle of Life V0+ – Average at best. A decent warm-up if you’re climbing in the area.
• Cilley Mantel V0 – Awkward, one-move wonder. Get your butt of the ground and pendulum up to the lip.

Problem Reviews 11/17/2011 – 11/24/2011

Therapy Roof
• Pappachubby V7 – Steep, fun pocket/crimp problem. Good quality rock, thought-provoking movement. Bring your overhang game!
Corridor Boulder
• Run With Me V2 – Good moves for the grade. Good quality.
• Hair Loss V1 – Fun jug-hauling to slick crimp top-out. Tall.
Slap Happy Boulder
• Slap Happy V3 – Fun sloper climbing with an awkward top-out. Big moves.
• Pirate Booty V3 – Pockets, slopers, crimps. Climb a short arête to a short face. Good movement.
Water Saps Cave
• Pokeriotous V0- – Very easy pocket pulling. Nothing terribly interesting. Sketchy top-out with lots of loose rock.
• Fluke V2 – Not sure where this one was supposed to start, but I started on the glossy, diagonal crimp at about 3.5 ft high. That start allowed for some neat movement. Strange, confusing top-out.
Coen Brothers Boulder
• Ethan V3 – Average. First couple of moves are all right, but turns to turns to choss for the top-out.
• Oh Brother V0 – Pretty darn cool for a little prow. Sit start is hard for V0. Located on the only part of the boulder that is of good quality.
Action Figure Area
• Big City Boy V6 – Beware of the sharp rock at the start. Overhanging crimp climbing. Trickery involved. Very enjoyable.
• Little Country Girl V6 – Unique! The start is deceptively easy once you figure out the beta. Awesome pocket pulling, sloper slapping climb.
More Water, Less Power Boulder
• Groundwater V5 – One move wonder. Height dependent. Overhanging pockets to a big throw at the lip. Short, boring.
Happy Boulder (South Face)
• The Hulk V6 – Another one move wonder. V1 climbing to a big huck to a horn. Nothing inspiring. Overdone and becoming very worn.

Problem Reviews 11/13/2011 – 11/16/2011

We’re starting to keep a regular log of how we feel about problems we’ve climbed. Hopefully these reviews will be useful to other visiting climbers.
Bishop – Happy Boulders – 11/13/2011 – 11/16/2011
  • Front Block boulder
    • Latona Basin V0- – Short with a fairly loose down-climb. Probably not worth the trouble.
    • Sacre Coeur V3 – One move wonder. Boring movement.
    • Grand Trianon V0+ – Funky moves with some very sharp holds. Could stand some traffic to clean it up, but recommended anyway.
  • Jesus Chrysler Boulder
    • Auto-gedden V2 – Uninspiring traverse. Pretty much the first boulder you see when you get to the Happy Boulders. Good way to get a quick feel for the stone.
    • Paranormal in West Country V1 – Straight up jug hauling.
  • Headbangers Cave
    • Headbangers Ball V1 – Fun and powerful for V1. Cool territory for the grade.
    • Beer Tumor V3 – Funkalicious. Beta might be very interesting for short climbers. Super fun!
    • Beer Tumor Right V4 – Not as height dependent as the original. Quite fun, with a long and core intensive move to an undercling. Really fun top out.
  • Slow Dance Cave Left
    • Rave V7 – Worn. Out. If you ever want to see what a Vegas hooker will look like in 10 years, come see this problem.
  • Gleaner Boulder
    • The Gleaner V6 – Fun and sharp. Unique start in to powerful moves. Need to come back and finish this!
  • Safe Surfer Boulder
    • Froz V7 – Wow. Amazing movement and great rock quality. Far better than it looks. You should bring some fight to this problem.
    • Safesurfer V3 – Fun. Maybe a touch easy for V3. Great moves and really good stone. Be very careful with your pad placement.
    • Son Of Claudius Rufus V5 – Must do. The line is obvious from the trail. Traverse the sloping rail into a pretty wild mantle. Pumpy!
  • More Water, Less Power Boulder
    • Comfort of Home V2 – Chris didn’t like it, Nicole did. Small, sharp holds cause some finger numbness. Awkward topout. SCRAPPY!
    • Happy Hooker V0+ – Fun and easy. Bucket hauling that is good for beginners.
  • Solarium Boulder
    • Solarium V4 – Tougher and sharper than it looked. Called a three star classic, but probably not that good. Climbs like a route.
  • Shadow Play Main Boulder
    • Rheinstor V6 – Really cool. Various types of climbing and vastly different beta at different heights. Sharp pockets and hard moves.
    • Cue Ball V4 – Probably better in cool conditions. Long move to finish.